Looking for parts for a 60 year old truck can be a challenge.  The good news is that many parts are available, either as reproduction or even NOS (new old stock) parts made by the factory way back when.  There are many vendors of Studebaker parts, some good, some better.  Generally, only one company or person actually makes a particular reproduction part and then it is wholesaled to many of the other vendors.  The best advice is to eventually pick one vendor you like and develop a relationship with him/her.   You'll get the best service and pricing that way. 

Your FLAPS (friendly local auto parts supplier) can get you many mechanical parts, though you may have to find the right store and the right person behind the counter and develop a relationship there, too.  If the counter guy says, "Studebaker - who made that?", then you have the wrong guy.  Franchised stores like NAPA have a good collection of catalogs that go way back, but it may take a "mature" guy to know where to look for them.  Many current parts are directly interchangeable with Studebaker parts.  Some of these items include spark plugs, universal joints, wheel bearings, engine parts, electrical parts, etc. 

Remember, too, that Studebaker bought many of their parts from the same suppliers as other car and truck makers.  You may find that parts made for other brands of vintage cars are identical to the Studebaker parts or are a close enough substitute.  Jeep parts have been a rich source.

You can't find the parts if you don't know what you are looking for!  That means you absolutely MUST have the Parts Catalog for your truck or car.  For some models, there is both a Chassis Catalog and a Body Parts Catalog.  You should also have the Service Manual.  If you own an M5, M15, an M16, or a rare M17, you should also have the manuals for the 1949-56 2R-3R-E-2E trucks because the illustrations are better, the shop procedures are explained better, and you can see what parts you can use from the later trucks.  Many of the Stude parts vendors have these catalogs and manuals.   They will save you money in the long run.  Studebaker International even offers them on CD-ROM, along with their catalog and additional info on the disk.   Also send the $3 to Studebaker International to get a printed copy of their catalog - it tells you what parts are easily available and shows you pictures.  Other vendors may have many of the same parts, but they don't have such nice printed catalogs.  You can get the catalog for free if you buy something from Studebaker International.  The web site is at   While they show many parts on line, it's not like browsing the catalog.   However, here's how you can get to the Studebaker International catalog in PDF format on their web site.

The Internet is an excellent way to find parts.  Try this: on Google, type in Studebaker and the 6 or 7 digit part number.  Frequently, you will be taken to one of the vendors web sites and shown the part you seek.  A number of the vendors sites are indexed this way, including Studebaker International (Ed Reynolds), Roscoe Stelford, and Chuck Collins'  You can also go directly to those sites, and some others, and search by part number.  Of course, you do need the parts catalog to do this... 

Here are some of the things I have found on the Internet and their suppliers:

Item Stude

part #

Supplier Supplier

part #

headliner, door panels, kick pads   Chuck Collins

horn button 199938X1 515178X1

( a little more red than original, but OK)

headlight rims 649030 Stephen Allen Cade

all door and windshield rubber   Studebaker International

mirrors on adjustable arms AC-1641 Northstar Willys

For CJ2 Jeep and Willys


Jeep # 663642K

glove box rubber bumpers 278986 Studebaker International

wiper arms -

9.5" pivot-to-tip

S-614 Mac's Antique Auto parts

Ford p/n

11A-17526 (rt)


shorten to 9-1/2"
wiper blades - 9" long 1337X4 Mac's Antique Auto parts

(for '41-'48 Ford)

Ford p/n


tailgate   Mack Products (Mack Hils)

bed front panel    
tailgate hinge 648805    
bed floors   Classic Enterprises

bed stake pockets (fiberglass)    

Frank Montana

filler panel

(below box)

648850/648851 Gary Ash

fenders (fiberglass)   Frank Montana

running boards (fiberglass)    
short bumper guards

(fit front and rear chrome bumper, M5/M15/M16)

197916/197917 Gary Ash

screws for door hinges 88-0516 2046X7

(Phillips head)

running board bolts

step bolt 3/8-16x1

37-0616 Gary Ash

Ruby Glow Red V-AA 7927 DuPont Centari acrylic enamel L9083A, CC:T, ALT:1  
interior tan [no known Stude code!] DuPont Centari acrylic enamel

PPG Delstar acrylic

Ford 1992 Light Mocha

C9258A, ALT:1

DAR 23013


Quad Duty heater - bronze hammertone   Hammerite    
tail lights 641311C(left)


Northstar Willys

(reproductions with chrome bezels)

For CJ2 Jeep

801157 (left)

801156 (right)

uses 1154 bulb (6V) or 1034 (12V)


tail light flexible conduit

(stainless steel)

  LeBaron Bonney

For Model A pickup



3-lug junction block for head light wiring 198061 Jeep 638977  
wiring harness

(main, tail lights, and overdrive harnesses)

  Rhode Island Wiring

battery cable and ground straps    
fog lamps and brackets   Unity

5 Inch antique road lights, clear or amber.


gauge faces (decals for amps, oil, temp, gas, and speedometer; also odometer wheels)   Gary Ash

instrument glass

(has markings for gauges)

513697 Studebaker International 513607  
+12 volt inverter, 1 amp

runs cell phones and small radios from -6 volt, pos. ground Studes PGPI  
cylinder head, 8:1 compression, cast iron (from 1960 Lark)

approx $72 current price



(machine shop needs to drill out temp sensor hole and tap for pipe thread)

Pertronix electronic ignition

(replaces points)

  Bill Cathcart

front wheel cylinders (new) 192508/192509 192508/192509  
wheel cylinder kits

(rubber parts)

S-376 (front)

S-377 (rear) S-376/S-377  
brake drums (new) 198038 1697013  
king pin kits 674533X1 674533X1

(without pins)

king pins 665297 (5-3/32" long for knuckle forging 100368) 678171

(grind off .250" each end)


If you can help me add to the list, be sure to email the information to me.   Thanks!

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